Santa was very very good to me this year.

holly jolly cincher!

Cincher in quilter's cotton.

Review: Yummy Fabrics

So, I ordered a few things from Yummy Fabrics recently. Have to say, I'm very pleased with the service.

The color of the fabric was very accurate (I looked at home initially, and then ordered from work, so I saw it on two monitors), the order was shipped the day after it was placed- and I placed it on a Friday! I also got a bias folder (since I am lazy), and some new fabric pencils (since I needed them desperately, I've been making do without for ages with less than stellar results. Mine were lost in the move,um, a year and a half ago.).

They tossed in some 4"x4" swatches of fabrics listed as new on the site. Also included a free 60" tape measure. Can never have too many of those! So yeah, I'd totally order from them again. (also, I saw a few fabrics on their site that were also on equilter, but yummy fabrics had them for a bit less.)

Bought some sewing stuff... a bias tape maker (stick strips of bias cut fabric in one end, iron as it pulls out the other. ta-da), some new marking pens, and a few boxes of schmetz needles (two assorteds and a 14)

oooh, and I do have to share this.
My next two "for me" projects
For December... doing this as a cincher with red trim.


For January... I may do this as an overbust.


Half was ordered from a new store, so if they turn out to be good I'll report back.

photos, finally

Finally got around to sharing pics of the corset that almost killed my machine...
Once the PVC warmed up a bit (my place is kinda cold) the wrinkles around the bottom were gone. That, and she's too small for two pillows, but the hips were not quite as full with a single one.

I should have pics of the owner wearing the corset soon enough...

And a bonus shot of one I managed to finish for myself in about six hours, start to end.

So very, very lazy

I have discovered something which brings me joy.

The fabric glue stick.

I used to baste each individual pieces of the outer fabric for a corset to a piece of twill, one at a time, before assembly. Took longer than actually making the thing.

Now.. a few quick swipes with a water-soluble glue that dries pretty much indistinguishable from fusable interfacing and I'm good to go. It has chopped HOURS off how long it takes me to make a corset, start to end.

Offers zero in terms of stability, and can easily be pulled apart, but who cares? That's not a functional part of the garment, just to keep all the layers playing nice while I sew them together.

Thought I would share.

(oh, and I'm hoping to have a new one done for me by tonight. Fabric is all cut, just need to sew it together. Just going to create channels for the steels by sewing the layers together, and I'll floss it mid-week or something, so I think I can do it. If I, you know, leave the computer and get to work...)

Things we have learned:

Fuck PVC bone casings without a teflon foot. No more PVC for me until after Christmas, since I'm not buying any accessories for this machine until I know if I'm getting one for the holidays.

eight layers of fabric (lining, inner lining, fashion fabric, the two layers of the bone casing, and the two layers of the decorative casing- while trying to add the binding) causes my machine to make a grinding noise and me to go through six needles in a night.

ugh. I remember why I never sew with pvc.

So yay, the mockup fit. It was a bit high at the center front, and a bit low on the sides, but the waist, rib and hip were dead on. Even with just four bones in it the gap was completely parallel and a perfect 2".
*little dance*

So, I made the adjustments on the pattern I'd drafted, and cut out the fabric tonight.

Just finished the mock up for a corset. It'll be zebra print with neon green PVC bone casings and binding. Not sure on the eyelet color yet, I'll have to ask tomorrow when she comes over to be fitted.
I think I can safely say this is the smallest corset I've ever made (a 19" closed waist). Small enough I'm wondering if I should combine the front and side front into a single piece, or split the side front and merge it into the front and first side piece, on the final, if only because they're so narrow I think the pvc will be too close together and you won't really see the zebra.

Oh, and I won a prize for my costume. A bar tab. yes, I drank it already.

Halloween time!

Goal:


And what I came up with in a hectic week and a half...



This dress used to be a tablecloth. The sash is floral ribbon, cape is red floral wire, a single corset bone across the neckline, and mirror organza from ebay.
The cape just wouldn't stay up on its own, so the final product has it tied to the clip in my hair.


Yeah, bit patchy on the arms there... 100 applications, my ass... Ben Nye, you dirty liar.

And bonus pics of my friend Danielle, borrowing a costume from years past.

almost done

I love these black grommets... they blend so well. I just wish someone made black powdercoated busks.

Anyhoo... here is one panel, the right to be specific, with nothing left but the binding. Eyelets in, all bones in, so it's basically all set.

Which is very good, as I wanted to wear it tomorrow, and adding the binding will be quick My top stitching is pretty good so I don't think hand sewing the back side will be necessary, just a wee bit of hand stitching on the very end to keep it neat. I actually topstitched all the bone casings into the seams made by the panels, and they turned out rather good.

The back lacing panel is actually seperate from the rest of the corset- you can see the seam on the inside. But, that's because it'll be easier to take the corset in when I drop a bit more weight that way.
Here's the final fitting, before finishing it off. I took in the top a wee bit after. I'm also leaning to one side, for some reason.

Woohoo!

So I'd say I'm at about 80% on the corset. Bone channels done on one side, busk in, just need to do the eyelets and bind the top and bottom.
I'm particularly pleased with this:
The busk is in, and I think I did a damn fine job matching the pattern from one side to the other. Not on the curves (since, well, how?), but across the center? Golden.

I ended up backing the fashion fabric with twill since it's such a light cotton that it would have stretched. I've checked and rechecked the measurements, compared them to existing corsets, and still feel like it's way too small. But compared to what I own, and based on the fittings, it should be good. If not, well, I can drop weight. ;)

The quarter inch spirals I got seem lighter than the kind I'm used to, and a lot more flexable, but I'm not terribly concerned, as the half inch flats will take the brunt of the abuse and they're a good deal sturdier than anything I've worked with before now.

And, a bonus shot of the front pieced together ready to be sewn.

Corset fitting, number one

So I have the pattern drafted, decided against the sweetheart neckline and went with a more traditional cut.
Got the inner layer together today (I'm lazy, and I know my sewing errors. Yes, mockups are important, but when you always err to the side of too big they're not as important, so using one of your real fabrics just saves time and cash.)

Sewed the front up (although that'll come out, I'm doing a busk), added a bone to the front and each side, and lacing panels recycled off an old corset that has long since given up the ghost.
Rather bumpy and lumpy due to having, well, three 1/2" flats that are all too short and nothing else for structure, but otherwise I'm pleased. The length on the sides is just where I wanted it, and the waist falls perfectly.

Need to take in the front a bit around the belly area (a big shock there, but a few people told me I looked like I lost weight, I guess so), and I think I'll bring the sides in about a half inch on either side.

Part of my problem is that I underestimated how much I can lace down. I'd been thinking my favorite corset which is a tad too small for me now is a 32". A quick check once I'd wiggled out of this thing wondering why the lacing closed so easily revealed it's actually a 30" waist. And one I have that I can easily close is a 34". So yay. I'm still a lardbutt, but less so than I realized.

Construction details:
1890s pattern from little corset book
inner layer- poly/cotton non-stretch heavyweight twill
Outer layer and lining will be 100% cotton. Black liner, black outer, front panels and back panel by lacing in Alexander Henry Tattoo (black)

Eyelets will be either black or silver, haven't decided yet. I've got both, and I'll see how they both look against my print. I'm thinking black. Shame no one makes black powdercoated busks.

(oh, ignore the wonky red stitch in the front... the red so I can pick it out easier, and the wonky because I didn't bother to press the seam, so it changes the direction it falls in halfway down.)

Corset drafted. Used the 1890s pattern from the Little Corset Book as a basis. Tweaked a bit to make it a sweetheart overbust so I can wear it without anything under it. I think the measurements should be good, but if they're off it's by too big, so I can change them easily. I'm thinking I may end up needing to add a hip gusset, though. What with the hips that can birth the USS The Sullivans (sideways) and all.

money, money, money

So, not too long ago a friend asked me why I don't just quit my day job and sew full time.
Well, this is why.
See, I work in the magical world of IT sales. No, we don't have a pet unicorn (yet). But we do have people from all sorts of companies, everyone from the lowliest manufacturer of mouse pads to the most powerful manufacturer of, oh, I don't know, let's say operating systems wandering through all day. And they all want us to like them. And to sell their products. And to reward us when we do so we are inclined to sell them again.

So, thanks to various companies, I have been shopping over the last few weeks.

Finally got myself a copy of Corsets and Crinolines by Nora Waugh, something I've been wanting since the a.g.f. days, but couldn't justify due to it's $54 (for a paperback! seriously!) cover price.
So, thank you unnamed maker of networking gear for the home for the Borders gift cards, which coincided nicely with a sale. I suspect it won't contain anything I don't already have in a multitude of other sources, but having all the info one could ever need in a single text is beyond useful.

A kind maker of bags in which one can carry their laptop has managed to help me procure a couple yards of Alexander Henry Tattoo in black.

I've picked up a few of the Simplicity corset patterns on ebay (thank you, RAM manufacturer!). I like to have patterns on hand, if only to refrence, or for when I feel like doing something fast. I was going to go with Laughing Moon, until I saw a comparison on Farthingales site. The same person, on the same day, laced into four corsets made to the same measurements. Both the Laughing Moon, and both the Simplicity ones. (yes, Simplicity makes three, technically. But two are the same, one comes with a chemise in the pattern, the other with a hoop skirt. Comparing the line drawings, the fabric and notion requirements, and the measurements, I've determined there's no way the patterns differ in any significant way.). I think the waist reduction on the Simplicity ones is far more impressive, particularly when comparing the two gored corsets. In fact, I really prefer the overall line of the Simplicity- it's much more of a "corseted" look, less of a "bodice." Looking at the Dore, well, I couldn't even get into my Scarlet O'Hara costume with that under- she doesn't seem to have more than a minimal reduction. I can typically lace down 4" or more easily and six or seven if I'm feeling masochistic.

Can you see where this is going? :)

Also placed the first of what will be several orders over the next few weeks with Corsetmaking.com for preliminary supplies.

So hopefully I'll be done with the mockup by Saturday, or at least done enough to know what size bones to order. And hopefully I'll get them by Wednesday or so next week so I can actually, like, make this thing and have it for rockabilly night.

Oh, next paycheck I'm getting a camera. So I can get pics of this thing.

Also, will be making a zebra-stripe overbust with neon green bone casings for a friend in the next few weeks. Which I am SO FREAKING EXCITED about.

Never did upload those french seam pics, but maybe tomorrow.
I decided to take the day off since I'm going to see my beloved Dropkick Murphys at Thursday in the Square, and working until 7 means leaving at 3 would be just silly. And yes, I'm still sick, but fuck that, it's DM. (And OMG they did Flannigans Ball on the new album. There are no words for how much I have always loved that song!!)

Which means tomorrow, assuming I get up at a semi-reasonable time, will be a sewing day. Hopefully I can churn out a skirt for me, and put together a halter top I've already cut. And then I won't have to worry about having something to wear since I need to do laundry.

Fall!

I love fall in Buffalo. Unfortunately it tends to last about thirty seconds before Winter slams down like an iron fist. I realized last night, grabbing a cardigan to go see a friend-of-friend's punk band play, that fall is clearly here.

Summer is so easy for me. Skirt, fitted t-shirt, open heels. Every day. For months. Sometimes sun dresses, but for the office, skirts more often than not.
The short sleeves are a bit much for fall, though...

So I'm thinking a few things like this may be in order..

This one's a Vogue. I don't often make Vogues because, well, I'm cheap, and they don't do 99 cent sales at Joann. However, I've been anxious to try the Today's Fit line, since Sandra Betzina's got a ton of very interesting looking books out there about fit and cut of clothing. I figured it would be a nice way to test out her methods to see if I actually want to spend the money on the books. And that faux-shrug shoulder? How cute is that?? I don't think this pattern would work for everyone, I suspect if I had broad shoulders on my already plus-sized frame it would be pretty bad. Lucky for me (ha!) I've got extremely narrow ones, so it may actually help balance my hips a bit. And shit... knits are forgiving.

I need a fall coat pretty badly. I haven't had one in ages. Coats are a problem for me, I can never find a cut I like in a fabric I like (read: isn't wool, and therefore won't cause physical discomfort). I hate baggy. Hate. And I hate short jackets that end at the waist. But, I think this may do the trick. Longer option, with center buttons, and without the crazed patchwork.

Maybe in a nice poplin or heavy twill... and the lining? Alexander Henry tattoo. :D



Part of me really likes this one. But the other part of me really hates the four-step buttonholer on my machine and would rather be accosted by drunk hobos in an enclosed space.











Oh, and halloween? No. Freaking. Clue. But, I did get french seam pics. They're on my roommate's camera, in his room, where he is asleep. So I'll grab them later.

Neat find

I found a place to get a small run of custom woven labels done up. I've been hesitant since most small-run places do printed, and I think that's less durable, and the woven places tend to require quantities well beyond what I could ever use, or afford. So. Yay.

They'll look something like this:


Oh, and later on I'm going to be making a circle skirt, out of a linen/rayon blend. So I'll take some pics as I go and do a step-by-step on easy easy French seams. (seriously, it is SO SO EASY.)

Martini Time!

In need of the perfect skirt to match a Cabo Halter I made from this Michael Miller print, I decided to do some hand embroidery. I haven't actually done any embroidery or needlework of any kind since I was in junior high or so. I've bought a few Christmas kits in the past at New Year's sales, with the intent of making them for gifts the following year, but never really followed through. Maybe because cross stitch is level-of-hell dull to me. But embroidery is easy. And fun. And something I can do on the train without taking up any more space than I usually do.
















So, I whipped this up over the last two nights: I'm happy with how it turned out. If tomorrow wasn't "Continental Reunion Night," an occasion that requires more gothing out than I've been doing in the last year or two, I'd wear it to the club this weekend. As it is, I suspect I'll be wearing it out Saturday night. And I'm thrilled it's done in plenty of time for the Southern Culture on the Skids show in a couple weeks. Here's a closeup of the embroidery. No, it's not great, but for my first attempt at it in close to fifteen years I'm pretty pleased. As I said before, it's based on the Sublime Stitching Viva Las Vegas motif set. I doubled the glasses, added the spill and splash, and moved one of the olives to the base from inside the glass, though.
I used Saral transfer paper to get the design on the black fabric, but I think I have to suck it up and put aside my love of local and/or independent businesses next time. It was basically just chalk dusted paper, and a lot of it did rub off before I was done. The splash was inspired by a transfer-induced mistake, actually. I'd finished the liquid freehand since the transfer was long gone, just to realize it was uneven with the rim of the martini glass. So I decided to add the droplets and puddle rather than rip it all out and start over.

It worked out, and I'm happy, but the whole thing would have been a lot easier with my normal dressmakers transfer paper instead of the art store kind.


Oh, and the skirt is a basic a-line, no pattern used. Linen-rayon blend, Hong Kong seams on the inside, waistband is plain bias cut from the same fabric. And no, I don't have a pale green dress form. I have a vintage acme that was kindly given to me. It is, however, also about five sizes too small at it's largest settings, so it's padded to hell and back (and still not quite enough) with an old green stretch knit nightie pulled over the whole thing to smooth out the lumps and bumps of the padding.
The top is really a sight, too.

Here's your package, Mr Burns!

Today's haul:
10 yard twill from ebay
2 dozen zippers and some thread from Zipperstop
Free bag findings from here

Also finished my martini embroidery. And will finish the skirt tonight.

(oh, and the title? That's how my roommate and I announce mail for each other. All the time. Oh yeah, it would take a rare person to tolerate living with us.)

Legs on display

A current project and a past one...

Here's a custom kilt I made for someone to wear to DragonCon. The owner's nickname is, appropirately enough, Moo.

This was taken before the final pressing, for reasons that might have made sense at the time but have escaped me now. Also, taken on my dress form, which was both too small and the wrong gender.



The flash on the front view didn't go off, and I didn't notice until I went to upload the pics after it had been picked up. Obviously.

Right now I'm working on a skirt for myself. It's a linen/rayon blend in black I bought at Elmwood Village Fabrics over the weekend. Nothing fancy, just a basic a-line for work. However, I'm also experimenting with my first serious attempt at hand embroidery since junior high- a Sublime Stitching design. I'm doing a modification of the martini glass from the Viva Las Vegas set, into two glasses, one with an olive, one without, and an olive at the base. It is going... slowly. Mostly because I started far too late last night, and woke up to discover I'd somehow managed to satin stitch the outline of a glass. Poorly. So I picked that out, and will redo it this evening. After I hem a pair of pants for a coworker. And do the "new fabric dance" when I open the mail (hopefully).

my ink

Mom always said I wore my heart on my sleeve...



My left shoulder

















My right shoulder

Projects in the works

Here's what I'll be up to for the next month or so:

For me:
Keyboard skirt:

making a plain black a-line skirt (poly-cotton blend twill)

Then, using some Michael Miller novelty fabric I'm going to cut it so along the line of the pattern to make a border, and then applique individual keys falling from the waist, down the right leg, and into the "pile" at the hem.

Still deciding on the length, but it's just as well as I don't have the keyboard fabric in yet.

New gym bag... for when I bother to join the gym again. Made from a thick canvas in a color they're calling "mushroom" but which seems to be a almost-charcoal shade of deep green. Trim is still up for debate.

A couple basic skirts which will really just be a way to try out some hand embroidery.

For others:

I'm making three long a-line skirts for a very tall friend. She wants ankle length, and even "tall" sized RTW isn't ankle length on her. She wanted elastic or drawstring, but I convinced her to go with a hybrid between either of the two and a zipper, to minimize bulk at the waist but still give some freedom in size for "bloat" days or whatever. This is the sort of project that makes me feel like a designer of sorts, since it's all pure drafting and sewing. No pattern, other than the one I'll create.

Another skirt for a different friend, a circle skirt in a rayon/linen blend. For circle skirts I almost always go with a gored or "donut" construction, since I think you have to be all but underweight to have that kind of gathering around your waist and not look puffy from it.

A few basic alterations- suit jacket sleeves being let out, a pair of dress slacks being rehemmed (one of those "you really want to pay me for this!?" things... not adjusted, not shortened or lengthened, just resewn where the manufacturer's stitching has fallen!).

Two halter tops, for two different people. One will be in PVC, one in an Alexander Henry cotton print.

So yeah, that's my September so far.

So, um... hi.

This is mostly for my own thoughts and organization, and an attempt to keep my sewing-related posts off my personal LJ. Which is more for the sanity of my friends than anything else.

But yes, the whole about me thing. Late 20s, post-goth (in that I just can't be bothered with all the velvet and PVC and so on these days), living in one of the few bastions of culture and commerce in a rapidly decaying city.
I'm part salesgirl, part computer geek, part gal Friday by day, not-quite-professional seamstress by night. Been computer geeking since I was about eight, sewing for just a little bit longer than that. Which means the time frame for both can be measured in decades. Which is pretty scary to me since I mentally still think of myself as just out of my teens.

SO... yeah.